Showing posts with label painting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label painting. Show all posts

Wednesday, 8 October 2025

WIP Dwarf Rangers

After a recent Fantastic Battles game on October 5, 2025 at my local games club I decided it was time to upgrade my Dwarf Long Beard unit from eM4 (Originally made by Grenadier) and make them Foresters.   The Dwarfs were defending a pass against Dark Elf and Viking attackers.  The Long Beards looked a lot like Rangers in the rough terrain area with their axes and brown trim on their chainmail so I decided to make them Rangers.  The leader in particular (back of formation) needed some repainting and the bases need work.


 Dwarf Rangers in combat with Witch Elves and Vikings

 

Tuesday, 30 April 2024

Prep for Cangames 2024 the Shakespeare Code - Doctor Who

This years Cangames game (May 19, 2024) will be another Doctor Who game, based on the TV episode the Shakespeare Code.   The game will be set in London England in 1599 with the Tenth Doctor, Martha and a variety of Elizabethan characters attempting to foil or expedite the scheme of six witch-like Carrionites to rewrite the ending Shakespeare’s play Love's Labour's Won rewording it to cast a spell to free the rest of the Carrionite race from imprisonment bring destruction to the world. The scenario is based on  a two player scenario created for the Doctor Who the Miniature Games Rules (DWMG).

Unlike previous years when I used the DWMG rules, this time I plan to use Pulp Alley rules as I think these rules are better suited to represent this multi-player scenario.  Those of you who have read some of my earlier blogs will know I have used these rules for other genres in the past. A short introductory video on the rules by the author Dave, can be found here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBraL7mwXgM

Those of you who just watched the video will have heard Dave say that the rules are designed for up to four players and I will likely have 5 to 7 players, so some adjustments will have to be made. This includes drawing coloured tiles to determine who moves to speed up the game. Additionally I have kept the leagues small, 3 figures per player.  

This will be an "evergreen" post as it will get updated as I progress preparing.

Promo picture from TV episode the Shakespeare Code.









Some of the potential figures I may use in the game from my existing collection as of  March 1, 2024.

Tuesday, 9 January 2024

Happy New Year

 Happy New Year Everyone, all the best in 2024

Making slow but steady progress getting my 28mm sailors in white tropical / Pacific uniforms painted, including two versions of Vera Lynn, all for Menelduir's the Pulp Alley China Station campaign.  Along with them some RN sailors in blue (Atlantic) uniforms and a Humber Scout Car, all for Bolt Action.



Figures by Warlord, Pulp Figures and Bad Squido

 

Wednesday, 22 March 2023

6mm French 1940 Infantry and German Fallschirmjagers

 Now that I am back in to playing 6mm W.W.II (Spearhead and Fist Full of TOWs3) I have pulled some of the figures out of storage including German, French and British AFV and infantry. Although the scenarios I have played recently with the Spearhead rules were set in Normandy in 1944, I have always wanted to play some games set in France in 1940 so it is time to start painting my French 1940 Infantry by Heroics and Ros (H&R) and GHQ. Plus as I will note later some 6mm German Fallschirmjagers (FJ)/ Paratroops that can be used for 1940-45 will be on the painting table soon (I hope).

 

Painted H&R Classic German Fallshirjager with LMGs

WIP GHQ & H&R French 1940 Infantry in Vallejo khaki green

Tuesday, 1 November 2022

Halloween 2022

If I do have a Halloween themed game this year it will be a post Halloween game in mid November as other activities prevented a game this past weekend.   In the meantime here are some Work in Progress pictures of possible figures for a Fantastic Battles Halloween themed game.

Tomb King's Army

 

Monday, 4 July 2022

Undead Catapult and Giant (updated 2022)


This is an old Undead catapult produced by Grenadier and re-released by Mirliton that I have been working on for some time and finally got the base ready in time for a game in Halloween 2019.   This catapult and the skeleton giant I was working on at the same time will be used in an upcoming SAGA Age of Magic game at my local club. These figures will work well for a variety of rule systems: 

Old Hammer (WFB 3rd or 6th Edition)
Fantastic Battles
SAGA Age of Magic
HOTT

Front - Side view


I have based it on an 80mm wide by 103mm deep base and I flocked it so it will work for a desert climate (to work with my Egyptian themed Undead army) and added  little more vegetation as compared to the pictures below. I have updated this report in June 2022, see notes at the end.

Saturday, 14 May 2022

Grenadier eM4 Dwarf warriors with spears and sheilds

Back in January 2020 I bought, from eM4 miniatures, a 48 piece set of 28mm  plastic Dwarf Warriors which included  16 warriors with spears (as shown below) with the remainder being warriors armed with axes and crossbows, and it only cost  £7.70  which works out to about 27 cents Cnd a figure (the 25 round plastic shield to go with them was only £1.50 extra)! These are former Grenadier dwarf figures sculpted by Mark Coppleston from the early 1990s,  but they are still very serviceable for rank and file troops. As you can see in the picture they have built in bases.

eM4 Spear armed plastic Dwarf

Spears are an ideal weapon for Dwarf warriors especially in Fantastic Battles when they have to deal with enemy cavalry!  Too bad they are hard to find among GW products, but I really like the Dwarf figures produced by Grenadier Fantasy Warriors in the 1990s, sadly Grenadier is no more but the figures are still available from companies like Mirliton, Forlorn Hope and eM4.  That being said I believe the new plastic Dwarf infantry set for Oathmark by North Star has a spear option.

https://www.giggrowth.shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=304022

They Oathmark dwarf infantry require assembly, the old Grenadier plastic dwarf figures do not other than attaching the shield, this limits the variety of poses but it speeds things up.

Wednesday, 30 December 2020

Contrast Paints on Skeletons

This is my first attempt at using the GW Contrast Paints. I tried them on a Reaper metal skeleton with two crossbows. I spray primed it months ago with Army painter Bone primer then tonight I painted with Contrast Skeleton Horde. After that dried (very fast) I block painted the crossbows Reaper Master Series Acrylic Drift Wood (light brown) and Army Painter Gun Metal as appropriate plus GW Bubonic brown (Ocher) for the shaft and a dot of red for the feathers. Next the gun metal was over-painted with Contrast Basilicanum Grey, and the wood with Contrast Snake Bite Leather. I was surprised at how much darker the Snake Bite Leather made the wood, plus a bit blotchy, probably as there was no grain detail. It is probably a good thing the wood is dark as it provides contrast with the bone. The only highlights done so far are on the arrow shafts. 

Left traditional paint job, right Contrast paints

Monday, 25 May 2020

Paint Removal made easier with a Sconic cleaner and Super Clean Purple

Since I buy a fair number of poorly painted miniatures off eBay  that I strip the paint off to repaint I also spend a fair bit of time removing the paint.  Over the years I have tried a variety of different removal agents listed from mildest to most toxic / caustic: Simple Green, Rubbing alcohol, acrylic brush cleaner, Super Clean Purple, Poly-S paint remover, spray on paint remover or furniture stripper, acetone and lacquer thinner.    The more toxic substances (oven cleaner, spray on paint remover and Lacquer thinner) seem to work best but they are dangerous and unpleasant to work with.  Some cleaning liquids work better than others depending if the figure was primed with solvent based paint, or if enamel or acrylic paint was used and varnish.  In terms of effectiveness balanced with not creating a toxic hazard Super Clean Purple has become my go to choice, with oven cleaner for really stubborn paint coats. You need to wear gloves with all of them plus adequate ventilation and / or a respirator mask for Oven Cleaner and the more toxic liquids.  There is often a considerable amount of scrubbing that needs to be done with an old toothbrush or other stiff brush plus digging out paint from crevices with a dentists tool or etching tool. It also usually takes 6  to 24 hours including soaking time.

I was curious if the sonic cleaners I have read about would make the process easier.  So I purchased Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer and used it with purple Super Clean liquid in the bath to see how it would work on an old figure I wanted to strip.



Friday, 8 May 2020

Dark Elf Skin colour

Interestingly when I look at the background information on Dark Elves in the third edition WFB rules it talks about them wearing dark clothes, but I don't see any reference to their skin being any lighter than other varieties of elves (Wood and High Elves).  The implication being to use the Citadel Elf Flesh colour produced at the time (late 1980s and early 1990s). Most of the pictures in White Dwarf supported this idea. However by the time the 4th Edition codex came out in 1995 there is a reference to Dark Elves having pallid flesh although the pictures still showed typical elf flesh.  The move to really pale flesh did not seem to happen until the next Codex for the 6th Edition in 2001 primarily with Witch Elves and harpies and continued in the 8th Edition codex in 2008 and for AOS.  Basically the Dark Elves have gotten paler over time.    

In the past I have used Citadel Elf Flesh washed with the Citadel or Reaper flesh wash (reddish brown) and then highlighted with a mix Elf Flesh and white.  With the latest batch of Dark Elf figures I am painting I want the skin colour to be a little  paler. I am not going to re-paint finished figures in regiments or heroes as all races can have variations of skin tone, just thinking of this for new regiments and heroes.

Citadel C13 General with my current Dark Elf Flesh colour
 with a base coat of Citadel Elf Flesh

Wednesday, 6 May 2020

Dark Elf General and Sorcerer

My next Dark Elf Old Hammer painting project (actually running simultaneously with painting the remaining crossbow Dark Elves) are some late 1980s command figures: a Citadel C13 Dark Elf General on a Cold One with a matching foot version and a mounted Citadel Dark Elf Sorcerer on a Cold one.


Citadel C13 Dark Elf General on Cold One


Citadel C13 Dark Elf General on Foot


Citadel Dark Elf Sorcerer C21 "Addlecore"


Thursday, 30 April 2020

Invasion of the Dinosaurs

One of the Doctor Who scenarios I wish to run is Invastion of the Dinosaurs featuring the Third Doctor.  I have started acquiring and painting various Dinosaurs, and of course I have the third Doctor.

The novel


Friday, 24 April 2020

Dark Elf Crossbowmen

I decided to get the twenty Warhammer Fantasy Battle (WFB) 3rd edition Dark Elf Crossbowmen that have been sitting around partly painted since the mid 1990s painted. My plan is to have two  regiments (10 figures each so technically squads) each having slightly different but related colour schemes. I have always thought the figures from Citadel for WFB 3rd edition (Citadel and Marauder) were some of the best, with the ones from 6th also being pretty good.  There are exception  from other editions like a small number from the 4th Edition.  As for the rules and army lists none are perfect but I think 6th was the best followed by 3rd, but ideally I would take bits and pieces from both (although that is not practical in most cases).

This is how my template figure looked when I put on the shelf in the late 1990s in a blue livery, I was thinking the second regiment would be similar but in Liche purple instead of blue to distinguish them.

My 3rd edition plastic Dark Elf
crossbow figure in blue livery.
I like the way he looks in his dark blue livery and light coloured leather armour, but is he really sinister enough to represent a Dark Elf?  I think he needs to be a bit darker.

The above paint scheme was based with the instructions on the Citadel Warhammer  Fantasy Regiments box set back in the late 1980s when the Dark Elves were more colourful. Here are some pictures from the box they came in.





However after looking at the Dark Elf Crossbowmen on the Lost and the Dammed blog that were much darker and more sinister I decided to make my figures darker.

https://thelostandthedamned.wordpress.com/2017/01/15/evil-crossbowmen-of-the-dark-citadel/comment-page-1/#comment-3648



Well painted sinister plastic  crossbow dark elves
from the Lost and the Dammed

Close-up

For my purposes keeping in mind the lighting where I game and my eyesight I decided maybe I did not want to go too dark as the figures might look like shadows from three feet or more away.

I decided to change the snakebite leather to a much darker Vallejo leather brown or black highlighted with Army Painter dark green over painted with Citadel Technical Warpstone dark green similar to the above pictures. Additionally add colour to the "feather" on the helmet, plus experimented with Citadel Liche Purple (AP Alien Purple) and Vallejo Game Colour Imperial purple. Here are my three new template Dark Elf Crossbowmen (including a repaint of the blue version) that I will choose two from for the two regiments.

I will pick two of these colour schemes

View from the back, the shield is a problem

The figure on the left is painted with Liche purple the other two imperial purple and the one on the right has the green over black leather armour.  All of them have yet to be varnished (so a bit shiny and the one they need flocking on the bases.

To sum up the three colour options are from left to right:

1. Liche purple with dark brown leather straps
2. Imperial purple with dark brown leather straps
3. Imperial purple with black leather straps with Citadel Technical Warpstone green  highlights

Only the original template figure has a shield, as I don't really like the way the shields looks, just wood slats makes it look like the back side of the shied and out of character for the Dark Elves.  If I use the shields I will somehow smooth over the surface, paint them dark purple or black and add some appropriate dark elf symbols with decals.

A Dark Elf general's shield I painted and added decals.

Excellent shield from the Lost and Dammed that shield,
detail is beyond my painting ability - I will use decals.

I could of course just leave out the shields as the figures look fine without them.  However for game purposes  the Dark Elves need them to deal with opponents that outrage them, such as Wood Elves with Long bows, the shields provide protection until they can close the range gap.

A close up view below of the original template Dark Elf Crossbowman originally in blue now in Vallejo game colour Imperial Purple and darker leather armour. He definitely looks more sinister and darker flocking as in the image above will also help. Only downside with the new colour scheme is I lose some of the detail on the leather chest and shoulder armour with the darker colour.



Below are example of the GW / Citadel  earlier and later Crossbowmen from various editions (not my paint jobs) all of which I own versions of these figures.

Lost and Dammed Crossbow  Dark Elves  figures on the ends
are Citadel metal versions from the 2nd or 3rd
edition that were more dynamic

Citadel 4th edition Dark Elf  metal repeating crossbow
figure, not bad but a little chunky for an elf.

Two of my 4th edition. metal Dark Elf repeating crossbowmen

A Regiment of 6th edition plastic Dark Elf repeating
 crossbowmen a little more elf like than their predecessors.
Citadel 6th edition plastic Dark Elf repeating crossbowmen,
painted by Autumn Leaves, don't like the light blue,
leave that for the High Elves.


Update:

I have decided on the two colour schemes to use:

1. Liche purple with dark brown leather straps
2. Imperial purple with dark brown leather straps

Therefore I repainted the figure with the black straps with green highlights to match colour scheme #2 and added a little more snakebite leather highlighting to the dark brown straps  to bring out the detail (first  figure on the left).

The two colour schemes for the 2 regiments

 Shields


As for the shields I had three products I thought might work to fill in the wood detail on the front to create a flatter surface for the decals:

1. Mr. Surfacer 1,000
2. Vallejo plastic putty
3. Citadel liquid Green stuff.

The Citadel Green stuff was quickly eliminated as it had dried out, typical poor packaging.

Mr. Surfacer which is a grey colour:

Pros:
Self leveling
Dries fast
Acts as a primer
Drys to a smooth finish

Cons:
Toxic smell, I had to put on a respirator mask, not surprising as it is thinned with lacquer thinner.
Dries very fast so it needs to be thinned as you use it
Can be stringy and leave little threads like the old  plastic model glue in a tube.
The coat is very thin so likely more than one is needed

Vallejo Plastic Putty is a white colour:

Pros:
Can be thinned with water,  rubbing alcohol or flow improver (I used the latter)
No nasty smell
Dries to the touch in about 30 minutes
It gives a thicker coat so seems to fill gaps better.

Cons:
Not self leveling, the flow improver helps somewhat, but it will likely require sanding
Reviews suggest it takes 1-3 days to fully cure before it can be sanded.
Reviews suggest its flexibility makes it  tricky to sand but applying a coat of CA glue solves this
It is not a primer so requires priming or colours will bleed.

Shields with the 2 products applied.

Update 20-21 April:

 Making progress on the shields.
Shields with CA glue added to white ones with
Vallejo putty, Undead coffin lid shields above them.
The CA glue certainly makes the shields easier to sand and seems to help cover the slats, but you have to make sure you use the watery type not gel!

Template Dark Elf Crossbow figure, shield has had  filler and paint.
 This figure had his shield done with Mr. Surfacer then the Vallejo putty, sanding (no CA glue) then a coat of primer, then gloss black and purple in the centre.  The wood slats are still visible but less prominent.  The shield will get a coat of gloss varnish before a decal is applied.

 Some reinforcements to be painted or re-painted for the Crossbow Dark Elves

Reinforcements for the Crossbow elves, 3rd Ed.
Citadel C9 series metal warriors, crossbows, and command


Reinforcements for the Crossbow elves, 3rd Ed.
Citadel C9 series metal crossbows, and command

Citadel C9 series warriors unit.

Update 23-24 April 2020

 I painted a coat of gloss varnish over the shield to prepare it for the decal, which adheres much better over smooth gloss surfaces. It is important to make sure the acrylic varnish is fully cured, not just dry to the touch as acrylic paint expands even after it is dry to the touch and can crack decals if they are put on before the acrylic is fully cured.  In most cases you should wait 24 hours to be on the safe side but I can accelerate that with a dehydrator.

Dehydrator

I applied the decals to the shield on the template figure as shown below using decal setting solution to make it conform.  It was a delicate job as the decals are from the early 1990s and thus fragile, I had to touch up a couple of cracks with white paint.


Shield with decal

Crossbow Dark Elf front view

The shield  still needs a coat of varnish applied by hand over the decal and the figure itself a final spray coat of flat spray varnish after it is fully dry -back into the dehydrator.   The skin also looks a bit too dark.

Here is another view with some other Citadel C09 Dark Elf figures: Legion Leader, Crossbow, and Sorceress Azireth Darkforce who is not yet finished.


Legion Leader with purple and brass detailing,
Crossbow Elf with shield decal, and Sorceress Azireth Darkforce

You may remember the Legion Leader on the left who appeared with the Crossbow Dark Elf (then in blue) in  an earlier AAR post from over 3 years ago of a Frostgrave game.  At that point he was predominantly red as I wanted to try painting armour in Ral Partha metallic red acrylic paint. However this week I added some purple and brass detailing to allow the Leader to blend in with one of my other Dark Elf formations which for the most part will be purple. I am pleased with the result.  You can see the Legion Leader / Scouts older predominantly red colour scheme below from the Frostgrave game in January 2017.


Frostgrave: Legion Leader as Scout far left, Crossbow near centre
Legion Leader / scout fights a skeleton giant - Frostgrave

Legion Leader / Scout meets his fate in the Frostgrave game.

Casualty area from the Frostgrave game 2017

Below are the other shields for the remaining 19 crossbowmen after putty + CA glue, Mr. Surfacer, C, sanding priming. For some reason the photo has a brown tinge but they are primed black.  As always primer shows up problems.  The shields where the wood gran is still prominent are the ones with Mr. Surfacer despite my adding a little Vallejo putty.

19 Crossbow shields primed black
 I added some CA (liquid Crazy glue) to the shields that still had very predominant wood grain (ones done with Mr. Surfacer) unfortunately it is hard to control and I got a little more than I wanted reducing the definition between the shield rims and surface (see column on left).  However I painted the rims in steel on the first 4 and it brings back the definition.  The shiny spot is where I added some gloss varnish to fill in a  hole left by the putty the CA did not fill.

Shields, with some of the rims painted.

 Everything is drying on the Crossbow template figure in my dehydrator in preparation for the final spray coat of Army painter flat varnish and I will add some gloss varnish by hand to some of the metallic parts.  I will use Tamiya semi-gloss varnish on the Legion Leader as he is predominantly metal that should have some sheen and then hand paint on flat varnish to areas that should be flat like flesh.

Update 25-26 April 2020


Here are pictures of the back and front of the Dark Elf crossbow figure after an application of Army painter Anti-Shine (flat) spray varnish and of the Dark Elf Legion Leader spray varnished with Tamiya semi-gloss varnish.

Back

Front

The semi-gloss spray varnish has done a good job of preserving the original sheen of the armour on the Legion Leader and the flat spray varnish has removed the unwanted shine from the Dark Elf Crossbowman. Not sure I need to hand paint  semi-gloss / satin varnish on the Dark Elf crossbow's metallic parts as they don't look overly flat.    I will  consider hand painting some flat acrylic varnish on the Legion leader's  non armoured areas like: gloves, wooden handle and skin. His base cold also use some earth added in for contrast like the crossbow figure has.

April 27, 2020

I hand painted some Vallejo flat brush on varnish to the Legion leaders clothing, gloves, mace handle and flesh, but left his armour and boots semi-gloss, no doubt he has some lackey to polish them!  I also added some earth like ballast flock to his base.  The Crossbowmen got some Vallejo satin varnish with a little gloss mixed in brush on the metal skulls.  The effect is subtle but I think it improves the figure, not sure if it will show in the picture.

Front
Front

Back


Close up front.

Now that the template crossbowman is finished I can start painting the remaining 19 figures, 10 will be like the one above using Vallejo Game Colour Imperial Purple the other 10 similar but with Citadel Liche purple (Army Painter Alien purple used on the Legion Leader), so I can distinguish the two regiments apart.

The 19 Crossbows needing painting,


In the picture above the group of 10 on the left are from the original box set I bought in the 1990s and had started to paint from scratch in the dark blue livery, including the one on the far right that I have now repainted purple as the new template figure. The  group of 10 on the right are from an eBay purchase in various colour schemes including the one in the centre I started to paint in the original purple livery with the light snakebite leather armour.

Below is an example of a different way of painting these crossbow figures from the Stuff of Legends, painter Stuart Thomas:

http://www.sodemons.com/rhstuartt/plastics3rd/pbs3darkelf/index.htm 

 


I like the way these are painted, other than the white shirt and trousers that just seems a bit too bright for Dark Elves, but there was a different look in the 1980s and early 1990s  for Dark Elves. Presumably these figure were painted in the early 1990s, but I can't say for sure.   I would prefer to see the shirt and trousers in purple, but that would mean changing the leather armour to brown which is essentially what I have done.
 

Update September 2025

As often happens the project got put on hold do to other priorities.   Since the last update I have switched from WFB to Fantastic Battles as my mass combat Fantasy rule system. I am now trying to get at least 12 of the crossbowmen finished for a Fantastic Battles campaign and will need a unit made up of 3 companies (bases with 4 figures each) for a total  12 of them including command.  The unit will be in purple with dark brown leather armour and black boots and gloves with some silver ornamentation.   I am mulling over different flesh / skin face  options using Vallejo Game Colour elfic flesh and / or  GW Pallid Wych flesh and purple wash. 

 

I like the faces on 4, 6 and 7

Latest finished template figure

The above example has AP Imperial Purple for the uniform colour and the face is painted with a base coat of Rakarth Flesh (beige grey), wash with AP purple ink wash and highlight with GW Pallid Wych Flesh. However the face is a bit chalky, maybe I can fix it with a glaze mix of flesh wash (light reddish brown) plus a little purple wash.
 
Below if the regiment I am working on (including the template figure) that I want to get done soon. Unlike my other archer  units for the Dark Elves these will have regular crossbows not repeating crossbows, it means they hit harder but have to take time to reload.

WIP the dark elf crossbow regiment for Fantastic Battles


Stats card for Fantastic Battles

The above crossbow are called light due to their leather armour.  Below are the stats for a unit of Dark Elf Armoured Crossbows with repeating crossbows and chain mail armour. I represent the faster fire of the repeating crossbows with the "poison" trait. and the armour using the "doughty" trait.

I am also planing a regiment of Dark Elf longbows, template figure below, I think the flesh is a bit too dark (perhaps a purple wash and  highlight with GW Pallid Wych flesh) but otherwise I like it.

 

Heartbreaker Witch Elf archer